trichy by ricklshaw....probably the shortest journey....

left by ricshaw to make the short trip to trichi...and the ashby hotel........a place that is faded at the edges.....in the garden is a huge palm roofed gazebo like structure...under which are cane tables and chairs.....very collonial......our room was dark wood panelled with a stuttering fan and a tv........lunch uner the palm terrace....wow..........deep fried shredded vegetables in a light batter and green pea marsala....this is some of the best food i have ever eaten....with a subtle chinese influence..........headed of out in search of an internet cafe for our daily dose....culture in the morning.....pixels and e mails in the afternoon........i went off to the bus station just for a look....it was total mayhem...bodies everywhere...every shape and size.....people sitting on bags.....sleeping....people begging......street sellers.......wonderful food smeels....pakora....samosas....indian sweets.... jelabis what a collage of life and the noise  and the bustle and the bus horns honking.......returned to the ashby for another meal this time with giger tea......the place might look a bit worn out and faded but what a good atmosphere and friendly staff........we finished the day with a nightcap....not what you think.......a lemon soda with a pinch of salt.....wat will tomorrow bring???? the ashby is close by the bus station....our first impression of trichi is its a bit of a dump......but heh! lets give it a chance.....today has been one of the most memorable in my life.....they the memoriews have been filed away.....the priest and the holy water......the elephant blessing....they will act as triggers to recontruct these events.....i  have a new hobby....asking shopkeepers for old news posters....mad eh! ....who cares...certainly not me....what next?

trichi

more india

november 20 friday trichi....

up....then followed by a shower.....coooooold!!!!!!!........out....negotiate a rickshaw to tghe fort........we are talking 7am here!!!!!! yep 7am........the rock is impressive it has temple perched at the very summit.....457 steps we are told...im sure if im going to count them though....they are painted red and white......the last 30 or so are much steeper probably something to do with more effort needed to reach the temple.....the entrance to the temple is via a bustling market selling shiva...ganesha nik naks......first shoes of and in

rickshaw to trichy

as it says rickshaw to trichi.....

shrirengham

a good nights sleep awoke early 6am and out just before 7am.....standing on the balcony      the view from all sides are temples and archways its absolutely breathtaking...we are staying on the main thoroughfare to the temples....some of the biggest in india...there is a constant stgream of pilgrims on their way to pujas.......before we set out the elderly ;ady of the hotel got us some strong tea....it was strong stuff...it would set us up for the morning....a delightful smiling lady very gentle in her manner.....we were up and away into the throng joining the tidal wave of pilgrims....we really felt part of it....not a tourist in site...apart from us....this wave of humanity was going in various directions because there so many temples....we were weaving our way through archways which are the entrances to the temples....the streets are bulging with people and the shops were starting to open up for the day ahead....no hassle this early the streetwise sellers were still in bed....the only word that i have to describe the scene is ...gobsmacked by the sheer size and beauty and atmosphere of the temples standind all around an imposing presense that dwarfed the small town....the photos that we take will only show a glimpse of what we emotionally felt...awe....we were entranced .......finding hidden corners.....tiny roadside shrines...a priest that we talked too who gave us holy water....a privelidge....no hassle ....a general hum of pilgrims praying...giving offerings...they to wre excited...people from different parts of india.....lots of groups of men dressed in similar coloured lungis...their heads decorated bwith bindy marks and colours....all smiling ....pleased to be at this holy place just like us......in the temple i was blessed by an elephant after putting a small denomination coin in his trunk....he gently touched my head with his trunk..........a very special moment in my life...we walked around the temples soaking up the atmosphere...often sitting quietly watching and listening....the temptation is to use the camera.....then you can miss the total experience to easily .....i dont want to only see india through a lens.....even the words dont do the visit justice ... i hope that they at least convey our state of mind in that few hours....the rest of the world did not exist......we were in another world........................back to a different reality....looking for a bank....not as easy as you think......finally the hotel keeper arranged  for a money changer to come from trichi by rickshaw.........this can only happen in india....this event was followed by lots of laughter ....hand shaking and tips all round.......what a friendly bunch of people........then it was time to move on....

catching the train south.......november 18...in the afternoon...

after the ceremony...said our goodbyes at the internet cafe ....... into a rickshaw...destination...the station.....funny feeeling we really felt sad to leave...we had made good friends........waited at the station for ages.......rain....rain.....finally the train arrived on time as they do in india....where are our seats...non of the rail staff seemed to know...however we helped by a fellow traveller....we bumped and banged our way in the train....through various carriages....the kitchen area...great smells....finally our bunks....stowed the bags and within minutes the samosa wallah was there....fantastic food....5 rs....followed by the tea wallah.....followed by the pakora wallah.........sat back and enjoyed the view and read my jackdaw magazine....this is the longest train that i have ever been on ...we walked almost the full length of it looking for our seats.....whenever the train stops men get out and stand by the side of the track stretching their legs...the engine toots and they get back on board as the train moves away gathering speed rapidly........i spent a lot of time standing at the end of the carriage with door wide open enjoying the wind hitting my face....i chatted happily with other travellers................3 more stops to go........2 more stops to go........the train slows....we get the bags ready....the train stops......so i hang out off the open door ..the station is a few hundred yards away....a fellow passenger suggests we get out and walk along the track....luckily someone advises not to.....very sensible as it turned out ....it wasnt our station.......a false alarm.....we continued for a further 45 miles.....at last we are there.....bags out....hustle and bustle....negotiate a rickshaw and off to the ashby hotel, which proved to be quite elusive....finally we find it and sign in...more forms......a lovely old lady showed us our room.....the proprietor asked if we had eaten.....no......he advised us to go next door....a simple street cafe, which turned out to be owned by the hotel....dosa served on a palm leaf....all the food was cooked in the street, and very tasty it was.....the signing in and eating all seemed to happen in 10 minutes....we took a quick walk to spy the lie of the land....bought three cakes...eat them....bed....an amazing day...a puja...a train ride.....another part of the adventure unfurls........

a day in kanchi....november 18.......more surprises

up and about in a leisurely fashion.....bags packed...cameras...video...notebooks....guides....sweets etc and off to the small temple opposite were we were staying ..the same place that i had watched the wedding the day before....there was a puja for a family going to kerula.....food was prepared for the jourrney for the spirit and the body.......rice..coconuts......and various mixtures.....which were blessed in the temple.....the whole family were going on the trip......i spoke wth their grandfather....he was dressed totally in white.... who explained what was going on....he said he wasnt sure why kerula....god is everywhere.....we both agreed...we talked about the ceremony and the journey we were made most welcome at the event......he was 72........the ceremony culminated in a coconut being thrown onto the doorway of the temple.....splintering into a thousand shards accompanied by chants from the priest ....meanwhile more sustanence was being prepared for the children.....food filled coconuts sealed with wax....we are very lucky to be present......the only strangers around.......so far on our trip we havent seen another white face...we are not on the tourist trail....incense filled the air of this tiny temple that was situated just off the main thoroughfare....whilst we were there the rest of the world did not exist we were enveloped in a hindu mystical world...not fully understanding but comprehending the spiritual journey that lay ahead of the family....in a small way we were part of their pilgrimage.....we were also on a journey of discovery both inward and outward...the family then went off in a suzuki 4 wheel drive....unexpected....we thought they might be walking ...well it is 2009........lunch and a rickshaw to the station....

tuesday november 16 or sunday january 17...up and out in kanchi

up and out up the gangyai road...the silk area of town...but we dont want any silk ...so we decided against the hussle and hassle....great we spotted a market....more our thing...hil saw some bananas...then saw a few more.....an understatement.....one guy gave me some coconut to eat......the monsoon....more rain ....so we sheltered in the veg market and talked to some of the stallholders and took a few pics...grteat fun.....I then had breakfast 2 veda with chickeas.....rain....rain.....yes more rain......negotiated a rickshaw/ better known as a tuk tuk......how much 50....20...50......he insisted on 50 we agreed 40 rupees....back to the baboo.....hil got back to the internet cafe where we had already made good friends with the young owner a a team of small laughing boys...it wa a pleasure to be in there ...such a tiny place but helpfuka nd friendky.....i went off with the camera.....then lunch thali special for 90 rupees....the off to another temple vaikunta by rickshaw.....15 rs......a guide was insisted on..we didnt want one...no option?....he wasnt happy with the money i offered so i gave him a little more....this doesnt happen very often.........after the temple we wandered maless towards where we staying finding more street shrines....we then signed up for indian sim cards...smart move we thought...more on this later.....hil went back to the internet and i wandered off down town to a busy roundabout...its fascinating watching tyhe incessant movement of people and traffic as though the fumes werent enough a truck roared aroud belching fume everywhere...there was a slogan on the side trying to make people aware of pollution...no one batted an eyelid...it was just another old truck...i spent a fascinating hour or at different places...just watching taking pictures and thinking random thoughts....went to find hil...but was interupted by some distant drumming....coming fromma small temple close by the internet cafe....a wedding ceremony...the muscians spilt onto the busy treet disrupting the traffic fuirther...no one seemed to mind....its interesting you seldom find indians getting annoyed as people in europe do.......the muscians were followed by the bride and groom...then they disappeared into the banquetting hall with the guests.....i talked with a few of them ....all great fun.......almost forgot to take any pics....met hil....mucked about with the lads and people in the street who i had photographed the day before we were becoming part of the street....evening meal and then off out into the night for cakes...15 rs

saturday january 16....is there anybody there?.....off we go to kanchipuram......

its really sunday.....up at 5am ..  yes 5am.......wash....dress and pay the bill........batting through  the city....driver said lets have breakfast.....off  into a roadside cafe....dosa...veda...idli samba etc...shear delight........as we approached kanchi we could see in the distance towering against the sky a temple building........this is why we are here....excitement in the air...anticipation......the streets were buzzin at 8am...shoes off and into the temple....people bathing in the tank.....elephants.....wherever you looked it was visual feast brilliant lored saris...people and the sounds and smells....tucked in a corner wasa mango tree it was otally surrounded by enand women....mostly women walking around the tree,clockwise.whilst other women decorated small shrines with flowers,incense,oils and tiny wooden beds were hung in the branches of the tree........this is a fertility  ritual the sight of all the saris and the chanting.....the general hub bub was amazing........kanchi really is temple town.....we wre so excited visiting the temples we have all therir names mixed up.....within the temples are small shrines to ganesh...shiva and others these were of real interest to me....i think that is to do with their scale, they are often in odd places....like part of a column...hidden in a corner....you do have to look or them...you also find them in shops....houses by the side of the road........the shrines are everywhere....they are part of daily life....our driver had been excellent extremely helpful with knowledge of the temples.....friendly and polite in a short time we had built a good relationship...when it was time to part it was a sad moment....we had become a close family....he dropped us off at hotel baboo soorya.....settled into our new temporary home then off out in search of an intrenet cafe....for our daily dose....whilst hil was e mailing i was off around the backstreets talking to people and taking photos...i had some wine gums with me and they gained me entry to all sorts of houses  and people...treat people how you want to treated yourself........do you remember the airport fun....at the hotel we paid for our meal with an.........old note......the manager was very concerned...we explained and we all saw the funny side of things.....then we went to an evening ceremony in a nearby temple with elephants in a procession and music...and holy men pulling a cart......it was a ceremony celebrating the new moon.....what an amazing end to a day that started so early.....

friday january 15.....chennai and a bit further

up shave...dress......opened the door and there waiting for us was the indian sunday times which i read whilst eating my boiled egg followed by toast and jam........replete our taxi arrived....you say it was raining.....this is real rain the monsoon....yuk....our journey took us right throught the city ....soon we were speeding south down the south coast road towards cholomondal.....the artists village...we thought we would call and say hello....we are booked to stay for a week at the end of our tour....we were nade most welcome by shanti the general factotem....more about the village later.....then we sped on past an amazing partly derelict theme park.....more on this later..............i am already thinking about what i might do at the village....sped on a bit more ...not really we were in an old Ambassador....more like trundle............we arrived at the madras craft centre...we had a good look around on foot...more rain we were almost swimming.....dont forget this is day 2....rain....rain and more rain......saw a liitle show of digital art......then swam back to the Ambassador.......detoured to kapareesh and took a photo...wow.....suddenly an elderly umbrellered gentleman offered his services.....we should say or i should have known better.....it will happen again ....no doubt.......

december 14 chennai...the start of the adventure

I dont beleive my eyes.....its january 14 today and the day in my reverse diary is december 14...what a coincidence.....karma or what.....may the force be with me as luke skywalker says...i must tell you that i am not a jedi warrior just a bloke in india with his wife on a mad escapade....well we are back in portugal now...i must add here that i did keep a diary every day so far i havent refered to the tome yet....but i am sure that i will..........the first day was wet and grey...great...we got a taxi to take us on a trip around the city so that we could get our bearings....the photo shows marina beach on the south side of the city....it is a favourite spot for indians at the weekend...there are hundreds of stalls selling trinkets and general tat and food stalls sellimg pakora and fresh deep fried fish...yum...yum......later in the diary i will show you some photos...its great this retro diary .....im having fun reliving the ad venture...
the second photo shows the very southern end of the beach......a fishing community....the first thing that we noticed was the derelict houses and the shanty town that had sprung up this is not unusual in india...we stood looking at the scene thinking that the colours reminded us of howard hodgkin paintings,,,we were about to take photos but something inside us said no???? are we voyeurs....why take photos it didnt seem right......we hadnt realized this whole area had been hit by the sunami......obvoiously something had stirred inside..........we chose instead to take a walk and look...and keep the memory in our heads. that day we also visited fab india a trendy clothes shop....thsi is something that happens all the time in india......opposites....from squalor and poverty to affluence....the two sit side by side....in mumbai now they are trying to clear the slums away....they are trying to do the same at this fishermans end of marina beach...clear the slums and put up hotels and develop the area ??????????????????

croston to chennai a diary after the event

this is a rather eccentric diary.....after the event....here goes...it will contain thoughts and observations...call and recall...december 13 we left manchester in what seemed like the middle of the night...have we got the passports...do the cameras have memory cards...do you remember it used to be film...i digress..we arrived at the airport curtesy of byron who incidentally took the first photo of our journey. we fiddled about waiting in anticipation of the flight..all exciting going into the unknown. first stop doha....feet barely touched the ground and we where off on the second leg....getting more and more excited......fasten your seatbelts we are approaching chennai......again the middle of the night...well midnight......the first thing that hits you is the heat...the humidity..within minutes your clothes are sticking to your skin......bags collected...this is tal start oenture......the unknown ...exciting eh?.....being used to travelling we new we had to get a pre paid taxi into the city..........been there done that...easy?????????? booked a taxi handed over the ruppees...to a chorus of indian laughter....whats the joke?????? we thought that we had been smart and taken some money with us from our last trip....how where we to know it was old money and out of date.....a hole in the wall...easy ...oh!.......problem the cards would not work...try another hole in the wall..still no luck....by this time we were about to pull our hair out...not so fast heres another machine try a different card...money money ......back to the taxi guys more laughter and we are on our way into the night in an Ambassador car the indian old faithful......at last the ymca....then the ritual of filling in forms and more forms...then when you think its all over just one more....bed ....sleep.....awoke for breakfast well lunch.........looked outside it was raining i mean raining......this is the monsoon..did we pack our wellies...will it rain every day?...who cares we are here.